• 2016 - 2023 models only (2016 - 2018 are preferable)

• Native manual transmission car only

• No history of front end collision damage

• No flood damage cars

• Highly modified cars are discouraged, especially if the wiring has been messed with

• High mileage cars are discouraged, 40k-50k miles is the sweet spot in terms of price while remaining in excellent condition

• LHD North American cars only. Sorry blokes!

The black RF was measured at 436 rwhp and 438rwtq (uncorrected) on a DynoJet at sea level. So basically a hot cammed car is roughly a 500hp and a standard cammed car is likely 10-15% below that.

We don’t know, and we don’t care….

Neither will you the first time you get behind the wheel and drive.

The black RF weighed in about 2790lbs with a full tank of fuel. Soft-Tops should weigh around 100-150lbs less than that.

As shocking as this is to believe, it does not compromise the weight balance and handling at all…seriously.

While the car does gain a couple hundred of pounds or so, the weight is evenly distributed as there is significant additional steel bracing added to the rear subframe as well as the flimsy aluminum Mazda frame rail braces are replaced by a much stouter steel box-tube 6-point frame-rail brace (see photo).

The majority of the weight being added is not the all-aluminum engine. Rather it is the transmission, rear differential assembly, the much beefier axles, and the additional bracing.

It still weighs less than a (FD) RX-7, and we don’t hear anyone complaining about those being too heavy.

When we corner balanced the black RF, it came in between 51/49 and 52/48 Front/Rear weight balance. You can expect a soft-top to be 1% more front-biased.

What you will notice, only if you have driven the ND Miata at the edge before, is that the car feels heavier and beefier than the 4-cylinder car, but the handling dynamics are the same. See this video for track impressions from a former spec-Miata racer.

The purchaser’s agreement stipulates that everything removed from the car as part of the conversion process becomes our property. The engine, wheels, tires, differential, steering rack, even the shift knob….anything that is removed from the car as part of the conversion process stays behind.

Sorry, but no. The car is built as a complete package. There is very little that can be left out without negatively impacting the driving & ownership experience and we are banking our reputation on that experience.

Sorry, but we do not use/install customer-supplied parts for any of our builds.

Everything used to build the car is new with the exception of the rear differential. They are no longer available from GM. So we source used differentials and then rebuild the internals entirely with new GM and aftermarket parts. In the end, only the differential case is used

Sorry, but no. The various supporting components to accommodate the engine and allow it to function were developed to only accept GM’s LS engine.

Even if we could make it function with the Mazda computer network, it doesn’t fit. It is way bigger than the LS3.

Unfortunately no. The 124 operates on Stellantis CAN architecture, instead of Mazda. The R&D has not been done yet to convert Stellantis CAN signals into GM and vice-versa.

We’d love to, but unfortunately the Chrysler/Stellantis V8’s are also too big and won’t fit. The cylinder heads are too wide.

Sorry, but no. Yes, it is possible and it has been done. It makes the build significantly more complicated with very little upside when it comes to actually driving the car and lots of downsides.

If you purchase a completed car, no. That is the price. Sales tax will be according to where you register the car.

If you are special ordering a car, maybe.

For example, if you want a Racing Orange RF, then that will be an additional cost according to market conditions at that time. Or if you want a paint color that was only available in 2022 or 2023, then that will also be subject to market conditions.

Additionally, you may opt for an upgraded roll hoop on any Soft-Top car….whether it is a special order car or a car we have already built…and that will be added to the price of the car.

The same applies to customer-provided “donor cars”. Upgraded roll hoops are extra cost.

The only cosmetic body piece that is part of the conversion is the rear valence which accommodates the center-exit exhaust.

The front splitter and side-skirts seen on the black RF are Mazda OEM and part of an optional appearance package from the factory. Some cars will already have them, some won’t. If the car doesn’t already have them to begin with, then adding them to the car will be an extra cost. They come in gloss black, so there is no paintwork involved. You would simply be paying for the parts and time to install.

Any body pieces other than the rear valence would be an extra cost. Currently we have not found a paint/body service provider that we feel confident in using, so we strongly recommend you stick with the Mazda parts since they come in gloss black already to match the rear valence and other gloss black accents found on Club models.

If you are okay with it being exposed carbon fiber, then yes, we can add it to your car, but it will be an additional cost. The unit on the black RF is a fiberglass unit, and it is a test piece to see how it holds up over the longer term. We have not found a paint/body partner to handle paint work for us, so for now we do not install anything that will require paintwork.

There is only one option: Standard OEM LS3 camshaft or a “hot cam”.

The black RF you may have seen on YouTube has a “hot cam”. All cars come equipped with the “hot cam” unless a standard cam is specified before the car is built. The hot cam is GM’s ASA camshaft. While it does bump power output up about 10-15 percent across the rev range without sacrificing any low-end driveability, the real reason we use it is because it just makes the experience feel so much more old school and fun. It is very easy to live with.

Whichever cam you choose is a no cost option.

Small add-ons like radar detectors, dashcams, low-profile driver seat rails…that do not compromise the integrity of the car and which can easily be installed “while we are in there”….are perfectly fine. Anything that requires us to take parts of the car apart that we otherwise wouldn’t, we’ll have to bill you for.

Sorry, but no. We do not install customer supplied parts in place of anything on the standard build sheet.

We’re pretty sure. Everyone says the same thing until they drive the car, and then they are astonished by how much grip the car has. The Falken RT660’s are the absolute best dry performance tire you can buy short of some really expensive Michelins.

Absolutely not. Zero chance.

The short answer is we do not know. State laws vary from state to state and can even vary from county to county when it comes to emissions testing.

We can tell you for sure you can register this car no problem in Florida, but you’ll have to investigate your particular state yourself. If your state requires the car to be CARB-compliant, then you will need to register it somewhere else.

During the conversion process the following systems are rendered inoperable on every car:

• Stability Control

• Traction Control

• Cruise Control

• Windshield washer fluid

Over the years Mazda keeps adding more nannies and electronic systems to various trim levels. Some of these systems are also rendered inoperable such as the forward looking camera and lane departure system. If you really need all that stuff, this probably isn’t the car for you.

Traditional features like power steering, air conditioning…those are all still in place and function, as does the Mazda infotainment system and even the digital instrument cluster display.

Please do…and please tell us in advance. We will work with you and your expectations to tailor the car to best suit how you are going to use it. To be honest it is already about 90-95% ready to hit the track, but you will certainly want higher temperature brake pads and possibly retain the stock rear swaybar, depending on your driving preferences. The car otherwise is setup to keep the average driver out of trouble. But since some of you track rats like a loosey goosey rear end, we can accommodate and we have lots of experience with race-car setup and support.

Not at the moment. It is on our to-do list, but for now if you don’t need/want the street-friendly gear because this car will live at the track and travel on a trailer, we can work with you to accommodate hard track usage.

Sorry, but no. None of that will fit without major cutting and reworking of the chassis and body. Trust us...nobody has ever gotten out of this car and said “it needs more power”. As-is this car is a very very very finely threaded needle. There is very little wiggle room for getting outside the box with the powertrain.

Sorry, there are no plans to offer DIY kits.